How to Get Rid of Spiders

June 30, 2011 by  
Filed under Pest Control

Most people are afraid of spiders, and spider phobias are among the most common irrational fears. Most spiders are harmless.Experts say that worries about spider bites are overrated, but spider bites do still happen to humans. The experts state that it takes provocation for a spider to bite a human.

Most people do not like spiders in their home. The best way is to get rid of their food sources, as this is what often attracts spiders. Since spiders are predators they gravitate to a food source such as an occasional or thriving insect population. Spiders are predators, and their presence in your house is related to available food.

Spider Bites

In the rare circumstances that you are bitten by a spider, it’s a good idea to capture it if you can. This is in case you have an allergic reaction. Then medical care providers can know what kind of spider it was. You can capture the spider by carefully lowering an inverted glass or jar over them and then sliding a piece of paper underneath the opening to trap it. If you suffer no reaction from the bite within 6 hours, let the spider go – preferably outside your house.

The More Dangerous Spiders

The rest of this article deals with two of the more dangerous spiders. You will learn where to find them, how to decrease their numbers, and what to do if someone gets bit by one.

Brown recluse spiders—these spiders have long thin legs, light tan to brown bodies and a violin-shaped mark on their backs. They are outgoing hunters by nature as they leave nests at night in search of prey. Most brown recluse spider bites are a result of the spiders being surprised. For example, they might be hiding out in clothing or bedding, hoping to prey on a food source, and then accidently come into contact with a person’s skin.

These spiders are native to the U.S. and are usually found in: Texas, Oklahoma, Kansas, Nebraska, Iowa, Montana, Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Tennessee, Kentucky, Indiana, Illinois, and northern Florida.

If you are looking for these spiders and want to remove them–inside, focus near the floor and look in stacks of papers and piles of things, closet floors, clothing and bedding that is in contact with the floor. Also check underneath cabinets and in corners. Outside, look in and around debris piles, stacks of things, rocks, logs, inner tubes, tires, ditches, holes and crevices. These spiders will nest in dark, undisturbed places so look anywhere that fits that description. Don’t forget places where a child can go.

Treating a brown recluse spider bite–reactions to their bite can range from none at all, to painful sores that take much time to heal. Fatalities are extremely rare, and usually occur in high-risk groups like children and the sick and elderly. Bite reactions often turn into hard, bluish sores that take weeks to heal but in some cases turn into large wounds that might take months to heal and leave scars.

If someone is bitten, it is very important to capture the spider dead or alive so it may be identified, but try not to crush it. Apply ice to the person’s wound and get the victim to the doctor immediately.

Black widow spiders–the males have yellow and red stripes or dots on their back and are harmless. The females are dangerous, and appear black with a red hourglass shape on the abdomen. The female spiders are only found on their webs and normally run away from a person. Most bites are a result of the spider’s web being disturbed.

It is important to understand that if you kill a black widow, it’s likely another might appear at the same place. So when you locate one, after killing it, you should seek to make the area in which they were found less attractive as a hiding place.

Black widow spiders like to build their nests in dark, undisturbed places close to the ground. The webs themselves are usually small with a thick den spun into the center in which the spider takes up residence during the daytime.

Locating and removing black widow spiders–black widow spiders are found throughout the entire western hemisphere. The female spiders hide inside the central den during the daytime, emerging at night to sit in the center of their webs. The best time to go hunting for them is at night with a flashlight. Search in small holes and crevices around building foundations and outdoor furniture. Also check storage sheds and any place that a child is able to go. If you locate one, use a stick to squish it against the side of its hiding place and then do your best to remove the hiding place.

Treating black widow spider bites—their bite is a neurotoxin which affects the nerves and is extremely painful. The fatality rate for black widow spider bites is under 5% but the pain and discomfort is intense and can last for days. If someone gets bitten by a black widow, wash the bite well with soap and water, do your best to capture the spider and then head to your doctor immediately. If fortunate, the spider may not have injected any venom during the bite.

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How to Get Rid of Mice

June 29, 2011 by  
Filed under Pest Control

Mice are some of the most unwelcome wild rodent visitors to your house. All of us have visions of fear stricken household members screaming and chasing the mouse visitor with a broom, but really this is not the most effective way to get rid of these unwelcome rodents once and forever. This article will help to show you how.

Identification of the Mouse

First of all, make sure that you are dealing with mice and not rats. Chances are if your rodent visitor is bigger than 5-6 inches in length (counting the tail); chances are you have a rat. Wild mice are also different than house mice. Wild mice prefer grains and unprocessed foods and house mice will eat almost anything. To find out which kind you have it may be necessary to trap one. There are some differences in appearance between the two types of mice. A general rule about appearances is that house mice have heads that are proportionate to their body and wild mice will have larger heads and larger feet relative to their body. Field mice are considered wild mice.

Getting Rid of Mice

Ample food sources are the biggest attraction to mice. To stop mice from visiting you not only do you have to remove food items from their reach but you must also prevent access to the food items. You also have to find where they are coming from and if their shelter is near your house (or in your house) blocking their access to you. House mice will eat almost any available foods (including pet food) but they prefer nuts and grains. Some varieties of wild mice eat seeds, insects, and fruits. Start your food-search in the kitchen, beginning on one side and scouring every nook and cranny for unprotected food, crumbs, spills, and trash. Keep your food elevated if possible, in metal or glass containers. Keep your trash in strong, odor-proof containers with tight-fitting lids.

If you come across anything you think may have been touched by mice, throw it away. Even though it has not yet been proven that mice transmit diseases to humans, they are known carriers of several viruses that are very dangerous to us. On top of that, their parasites do transmit diseases to us.

Work your way through your entire house in this fashion; closets, pantries, dining rooms, bars, living areas, children’s rooms, and anyplace that food is known to go. Take careful note of any areas that appear to have been visited by mice, for example, check soft furniture for gnawing damage near the floor.

Next, go outside and search a fifty foot radius around your home. Check out exterior storage closets and sheds for pet food, seeds, ripe or rotting fruit, and any organic material that shows signs of feeding. Move compost heaps away from the house. Seal up bags of pet food or sacks of seeds and elevate or store them in metal trash cans.

Get Rid of Their Shelter

Mice like to live anywhere warm, quiet, and close to food. They have the ability to squeeze through openings the size of a US dime. They can get inside walls, ceilings, underneath fixtures, behind and under cabinets. Clean out all the clutter in your house as this creates places for them to hide. The point is to eliminate shelter. Keep in mind, the average mouse only strays about 25 feet from its nest, making your traps and barriers from its home to your home more effective and they will have to move to a new home somewhere else.

Block all methods of home entry

Besides removing the food items, this is one of the most important steps. Since mice get in through very small holes plug them by starting outside your home and looking for any openings that could be inviting to a mouse. Plug these with materials that cannot be gnawed. This means cement or mortar for the big holes, steel wool or metal plating for smaller crannies and nooks. Note that mice entry points can be as high as 2 feet off of the ground.

Now take a second look around the perimeter of your home. Once the exterior has been plugged against mice, go back inside, and into the basement (if you have one). Look for cracks, holes, and crannies that may lead outside. Plumbing and wiring conduits are common culprits for visiting mice to use, so plug those also with steel wool.

Various poisons and bait can also be used for mice besides old fashioned mousetraps. For more information about these methods to rid yourself of mice please do additional internet searches.

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How to Deal With Fleas

June 28, 2011 by  
Filed under Pest Control

Fleas feed on the blood of mammals. Fleas are annoying and cause itchiness. Fleas do live on their mammal hosts, but their eggs are left in the environment. You can clear the area of their eggs and prevent future generations by doing the following: check the host’s bedding. The eggs that are left on the host will fall off and accumulate in beds, clothes, carpets, cars, and anyplace that the host visits.
Flea eggs hatch in 1-2 weeks, after which the fleas emerge as larvae that can live in carpets and bedding for up to 200 days before transforming into legless pupae. They can survive for over a year before becoming adult fleas. So, the first step after infestation is to clean everything that has come into contact with the infested persons or animals. Here is how to do it.

You can quarantine infested pets until treatment is done. Collect bedding, rugs and throws and wash them in soapy water. Soapy water kills the eggs, larvae, pupae and adult fleas. Be careful not to spill eggs or larvae when picking them up. Eggs are usually found with tiny pellets of dried blood — the combination looks like salt and pepper.

Vacuum everything and anywhere that dust collects. This will pick up most of the eggs, but some larvae will remain. The remaining larvae can be dealt with by having the carpets professionally steam-cleaned (the steam will kill almost every stage of fleas). Make sure you warn the carpet cleaners about the fleas and remove infested animals. As an alternative, shampoo the carpet with insecticidal carpet shampoo or have a pest control professional apply an infrared heat treatment to the carpet, which kills all stages of flea.

If your pet spends much time outside, douse his usual resting areas with lots of soap and water to drown fleas that may be waiting.

Treatment for Flea Removal from People and Pets

Once the environment has been thoroughly cleaned, move immediately to its inhabitants.

Removing fleas from people: bathe one to two times daily with soap. Insecticidal shampoos are available but optional. Comb daily with a special flea comb. Record daily the number of fleas removed so you can identify any population increase before it becomes a problem.

Removing fleas from pets: please be very careful when applying flea treatments to yourself and your pets. Only use treatments that are meant for the animal you are going to use it on. Flea treatments meant for dogs and the environment can easily kill cats. Also keep in mind that any insecticide is designed to interfere with natural biological processes – to kill.

Wash your pet with soapy water. Insecticidal cat and dog flea shampoos are available but not necessary. Safer’s flea shampoo is one of the least toxic varieties. Stay away from shampoos that contain DEET (diethyltoluamide) as it can cause serious adverse reactions.

Comb your pet daily with a special flea comb that is designed to extract fleas and dispose of any you find in soapy water.

After Treatment

Restrict pets to areas that are easily cleaned. (No basements, bedrooms, garages, cars, etc).

Vacuum daily since the previously applied steam cleaning can trigger any remaining eggs to hatch. Remember to seal up or dispose of vacuum bags immediately after use.

Provide bedding for your pet that is easily removed and cleaned. Lay towels anywhere your pets like to lounge, and wash them every week until the fleas are gone, and every two weeks after that.

Comb your pets daily with a special flea comb and record the number of fleas. Flick any fleas that are removed into soapy water to kill them and if a population spike occurs, bathe the pet. Shop carefully for any flea collars. Do not use products that have toxicities to animals or humans

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How to Get Rid of Ants

June 27, 2011 by  
Filed under Pest Control

Ants are very hard working. As E.O. Wilson the founder of Sociobiology discovered, they are amazing to observe, but they can sure be bothersome if they are unwelcome guests in the home. This article will detail the process of getting them out and away from your home.

People confuse ants with termites. Ants have thin waists and bent antennae and termites have thick waists and straight antennae. This article does not cover termites, nor does it cover the larger carpenter ants.

Ant Proofing Your Home
The first step in battling ants in your home is to eliminate the things in the environment that are attracting them. This is usually their food. A side benefit is that ant-proofing your home will also help with preventing cockroaches. Since, different species of ants eat different things, and since there are over 15,000 species on this planet it is hard to list their food attractions. You can observe them to see what they are eating and carrying off. Also where are they getting in at? Where is their nest? And are they a species that bite? Harvester ants and those nasty fire ants you might have learned about on TV can bite and cause allergic reactions, but they rarely enter homes.

You will likely have to clean up live ants during the ant-proofing. If you need to kill a quantity of ants, use either a sponge soaked with soapy water or a spray bottle filled with soapy water. When you do locate a trail of ants, try to discover where they are going and coming from. Seal up any openings with silicone caulking.

Eliminate Food Sources

Ants are normally found in places with a high food concentration such as kitchens. Here are a few tips about how to kitchen. Store your food in Rubbermaid type plastic containers, jars with lids that have sealing gaskets, or jars with tight-fitting hinged lids. Refrain from storing anything in the open, in bags, or in jars without sealing gaskets. Make sure you clean out your toaster or toaster oven after every use. Clean with soap all surfaces in your kitchen at least once a week to remove crumbs and food residues. Sweep or vacuum the kitchen floor weekly. When throwing away food wrappers or containers rinse them out to remove any organic material first. Save all of your organic waste in a sealed container and dispose of it separately. Either compost it in your garden or throw it in the trash bag as you take the garbage out. Other suggestions include: use trash liners (bags) and ensure your trash can has a tight-fitting lid. Finally, Rinse out the trash can if it ever gets grime or garbage on it.

Ant barriers

Now that all of your cabinets are packed away and the food is in protective containers, take a good look around for anything else that may be attracting the ants. Potted plants, unprotected pet foods, open bowls of fruit or nuts are all possible targets. We can keep these things safe by erecting barriers that the ants cannot or will not cross. Try sticky ant barriers on table legs and around plant platters and pots. The ants don’t like these and won’t then try to go up the table legs looking for food. Detergent ant barriers made of water and detergent can be helpful. Detergent barriers are made by placing something (a potted plant or your pet’s food dish for example) in a larger dish or platter partly filled with a water and detergent mix. Other ant barriers include baby powder, Petroleum jelly, Eucalyptus oil (a little on a cloth), Cinnamon, and tea tree oil.

Ant control

If you’ve battled the ants back this far, consider stopping if the number of remaining ants is tolerable. With no more human-foods left, they will focus on picking up tiny organic crumbs that would normally be food for cockroaches and beetles. On top of that, they will also eat other pest insects. The population size is relative to the amount of available food, and will actually help you keep the house clean.

Moving ant colonies—if your ants have a nest near your house and you need to remove an entire ant colony you should do more research on dealing with ant colonies.

Poisons–there are many poisons you can use and you should research this carefully as well. Some might be toxic to plants and pets and some are more natural. Drax is one of the least toxic products available (It uses Borax). It’s easy to make your own Borax-based poison bait. Just purchase a quantity of borax and a box of pint-sized mason jars and then follow these steps: Combine 1 cup sugar and 1 cup water. Mix in 4 teaspoons boric acid. Fill 4-8 mason jars with about 1 cup of bait each. Loosely pack cotton into the jars to about the half way point so they sit in the bait solution and then saturate the rest of the dry material with more bait. Separately, take the lids and poke 3-5 holes in each lid top with a hammer and nail. Screw the complete lids tightly onto the mason jars. Place the jars out in the areas of infestation. Keep these inaccessible to children and pets! If the sugar doesn’t work, trade it up for something you’ve seen the ants go for already.

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Five Secrets to Getting Rid of Silverfish

June 26, 2011 by  
Filed under Pest Control

Clearing out your home of silverfish will require you to assess if what you actually see are silverfish, or just firebrats. The first thing to know about silverfish is the color which varies from gray to green. Areas of around 80 degrees Fahrenheit are their preferred areas while Firebrats like places above that, at around 100 degrees Fahrenheit and are usually either black or white in color.

Cut the Cord to Sources

In order to fully rid of silverfish, you will need to cut off their sources such as the moist areas they tend to live in. Your pile of leaves or mulch, attic, kitchen, sinks, and bathroom space all contain high contents of moisture from the water present. Silverfish can also reside in your bookshelves and books, water heaters and stoves, or laundry room because of the high humidity level.

You can control these creatures by reducing the moisture in your home. Make a run throughout the house and fix all leaks. An ideal way to control infested areas is to use silicone caulk to cover cracks or install a humidifier or desiccant inside the house. Silverfish cannot survive in dry environments and even firebrats cannot live in excessive dryness.

How to Locate the Pests and Kill Them Dead

It is actually quite easy to locate silverfish because they have to be around food and they prefer sugar, protein, and starch which is a silverfish favorite so be wary of your goods. Silverfish can also be found in cereals, starched
fabrics, synthetic fibers, glues, and wallpaper pastes. If you suspect a particular area of the house may be infested, immediately clean that area thoroughly before your belongings gets damaged by silverfish.

Holes, notches, and scrapings with odd shapes are good indications that silverfish have been feeding in that area. Typically, there will be marks on the wallpaper from silverfish lurking for the paste inside. You may also see yellow stains on your pants, shirts, or other types of fabric.

You can’t go wrong with killing silverfish with poison. Insecticidal dusts, diatomaceous earth, and Borax are the best poisons to kill silverfish and applying some behind furniture, appliances or other suspect places, can do wonders. Prevent silverfish from ruining your bookcase by spreading some diatomaceous earth on the back of your books while on display. This poison can kill silverfish, firebrats, insects that eat paper, and can even reduce the moisture in your books.

Tips to Take Care of It Yourself

Use sticky roach traps which have always proven effective when trapping silverfish and firebrats. Available at your local hardware store, it is easy to buy there or online and delivered right to your door. Another option is to leave bait to lure the silverfish when you are not sure where the infestation may be coming from. However serious your silverfish problem is and what method you choose to get rid of them, make sure you are not actually feeding them and helping them thrive in damaging your house without you looking.

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Getting Rid Of Chiggers

June 25, 2011 by  
Filed under Pest Control

1. Identification of Chiggers

Harvest mites or chiggers are small arachnids that cannot be seen with the naked eye. The babies or larvae hatch in the foliage and will attach themselves to anything that gets close enough for them to get on to. The small larvae then start to connect themselves to pores or hair follicles. Next, the parasite starts to inject a type of digestive enzyme into the pore. This dissolves the skin cells and these are then used as food for the larvae. Once they have eaten enough, they disconnect from the host and grow into adults. This causes a raised welt that is very itchy. It takes about three weeks to heal up.

2. Elimination of Chiggers

Parasites are most active in the hot summer months. They are usually found living in bushes, tall weeds and grass, leaves, bark, fences, and berry patches. In order to keep them at bay, be sure to keep your weeds pulled and your grass trimmed down. Get rid of any dense foliage that is not part of your overall landscaping outline. Also, get rid of any piles of decaying plant and leaves. Flood the rest of your foliage with a mixture of water and soap to kill off any adult chiggers. Do this at least once or twice a week for a couple of months to get rid of any newly hatched chiggers.

If these parasites happened to make it to your personal plants in the house, then move the plants out. You can kill the parasites by soaking the plants with soap that is mild and insecticidal. Check your plant nursery for more information on these kinds of soaps. Keep the plants away from any people and pets. Repeat the rinses at least once a week for a couple of months.

3. Treatment and Prevention

If your pet or a family member has become infested with chiggers, then it is very wise to wash them. Also wash the clothing. If you do not do this, then larvae that have not made it to the skin yet can remain and eventually they will feed or head for the nearest houseplant.

Chigger Repellents

When you’re near an area that is potentially infested with chiggers, you should try not to move through any foliage that is dense. Also, you should not sit on the ground. You can also wear clothing that will protect you, such as tight knit clothing. Wear socks and shirts over the pants and keep shoes on. After you’re done, be sure to bathe and wash your clothes thoroughly. In addition, you can visit your local pharmacy for chigger repellents, such as sulfur powders and sprays.

Removing Chiggers

If you’ve become a host to chiggers, wash all of your clothing with washing powder and put it on the hottest setting possible. Next, shower and wash yourself thoroughly with hot water and soap. You can use an exfoliating sponge to scrub areas, especially between toes, neck, armpits, and groin area and inside of knees.

The bites from these parasites create raised welts that are very itchy and they can be treated with green tea extract, Calamine lotion, and hydrocortisone cream.

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How To Get Rid Of Garden Moles

January 27, 2011 by  
Filed under Pest Control

Garden moles are cute little creatures that have a habit of making tunnels in the garden or pushing rocks around that can potentially harm the garden or equipment that is sitting there. These creatures are almost blind but it doesn’t stop them from getting to where they are going. Since they spend a lot of time under the ground, they don’t use them much anyway.

Unfortunately, these furry critters have the potential to damage other things aside from the garden and equipment like such things as the drainage systems. Also, with the tunnels that they build, weasels can access the territory which is another story altogether.

Moles aren’t all bad as their digging helps to aerate the soil and because they eat invertebrate animals, they don’t eat the plants. They can however make your garden into an eye sore because of the mounds of dirt that they push up aside from the damage that they can cause.

Getting Rid of the Issue

Because garden moles are not social creatures, there is good news and that is that you only have to get rid of one of them to end the problem.

Traps

You can find out which tunnel the mole uses by ruining a part of it and see if the animal fixes it. When it does repair the tunnel, that is the tunnel that you need to put the trap in. You don’t necessarily have to use a trap because you can often catch them with a shovel. You can also use a mouse trap because they are about the same size as a large sized mouse.

Deterrent

When you mix castor oil, cayenne pepper with water and spray it into the tunnels, this will stick onto the fur of the creature and cause it to itch and burn. This will make the creature run from the property and not want to return.

Repellents

Fox urine and human hair can act as a repellent for these creatures when they are put down into the tunnels. Castor oil can also be used as it gives the mole an upset stomach. If you want to take the route of poisoning them, you can purchase mole pellets or invest in a cat that may send them over to the next door neighbor’s yard.

Keeping them Around

Even though a mole can be destructive, they can also help the yard. They aren’t harmful to humans or pets so it might be worth it to outlast their visit too.

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How To Get Rid Of Birds

January 27, 2011 by  
Filed under Pest Control

Birds are very pretty in nature and there are plenty of people who have taken up watching them as a hobby but when you have a lot of them in your yard, it might be more of a hassle than anything else. It is not like watching the cartoons but it turns into a real-life nightmare. There are many types of birds that might have a desire to take over your home and there are different ways of dealing with each one.

  • Feral pigeons are the number one bird pest, which are known for their debris. This debris collects on roofs and in gutters, drain spouts, as well as other various places. This debris can then damage these areas. The feces are corrosive aside from it adding an unpleasant sight to the area but is also the carrier of various health risks because of various parasites and fungi that live in it. To keep them away, you can try using netting but it won’t come without a battle. They do like to stay where they originated from.
  • Starlings and sparrows while they are beautiful birds can cause the same damage as pigeons but they also tend to drive the native birds to extinction. This being said, unlike the pigeon, they can be trapped and relocated but they may be quickly replaced with another group. Starlings are however easily spooked by loud noises and both starlings and sparrows can be deterred by mild electrical shocks. Once the birds have been removed, the nests should also go.
  • Gulls can also cause the same problems as pigeons but they are mostly located near coastal areas or various bodies of water. They can be deterred through various means such as electrical shock, netting, noisemakers or by shapes of their natural predators.
  • Canada geese are more of a nuisance for farmers when they are migrating north or south. They like to eat and trample the crops. They are also worse for air safety than even the gulls are and they can become aggressive during mating season. There are fencing systems that can work as well as the visual and/or audio systems that you can use. Denying them access to the water source such as ponds as well as the grassy areas can also be effective.
  • Woodpeckers cause damage to trees and to homes but can be deterred with protective coatings being put on the wooden areas effected as it leaves a bad taste in their mouth.
  • Grackles and blackbirds do similar activities as the starlings do but they also make a lot of noise. Electric shocks, irritant fogs, visual fright devices as well as noisemakers work well in getting rid of these creatures.
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How To Get Rid Of Ladybugs

January 26, 2011 by  
Filed under Pest Control

Ladybugs have a lot of great qualities. They are a pretty insect for one thing, but they also eat other bugs that can be harmful to plants. On many occasions, gardeners have brought in ladybugs to protect their plants from these other insects. The unfortunate thing about this whole scenario is that there was such a demand for these creatures that companies started to import them from Asia and they do not act the same way as the other species normally available. They are more voracious and they hibernate in winter unlike the North American ones that are more domestic and that die in the cold season. This has caused a problem with ladybugs that we are now trying to fix.

Generally these ladybugs look for cracks and crevices to make their homes in and if you have a home that is made with wooden siding or is painted using a light color, it is a great attractant for these insects. The pheromones that they excrete attract even more ladybugs and they start to overflow the home after some time. They don’t tend to damage anything within the home but they can be a nuisance when they are flying around, land on you or even bite you if they are in need of food.

Making it Difficult

The first step to taking control of the situation is to take away their access routes to your home. Inspect your home for cracks and crevices and seal them. Also, you can spray them with insecticide unless they are in the attic where this route of using spray is not recommended. Foam insulation is good for the sealing of cracks especially those near windows, light fixtures and so on.

Repellents

You have other options aside from using harmful chemicals as you can use an insecticidal soap spray that will kill them when it comes into contact with them. It is not considered a repellent however because there is no residual effect. There is a chemical called cypermethrin which not only kills the ladybugs on contact but also repels them. It is used to spray over cracks and crevices after they are filled in and sealed.

Traps

In the case that you want immediate results that will kill the creatures, you can use a hand held zapper which electrocutes the creature. A bug zapper/vacuum is another option. This sucks the ladybugs right out of the air and you have a choice of killing it or letting it go. You can also opt simply to vacuum the bugs, which is a cheaper option than the zapper.

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How To Get Rid Of Box Elder Bugs

January 25, 2011 by  
Filed under Pest Control

Box elder bugs are found all over the United States between the seasons of fall and spring. It is about half an inch long by quarter of an inch wide. Wherever there is a female box elder bug, there will be hordes of males. While they eat a wide variety of plants, they like to eat the seed pod from the female even more. The easiest way to remove the bugs might seem to be to remove the female but these bugs can fly a long distance so they can easily travel from place to place.

The Annoyances of Having Box Elder Bugs

These bugs are not potentially dangerous as other bugs are such as wasps or mosquitoes but they are an eye sore and they can stain various types of light-colored surfaces such as curtains. Also, if you step on, it has a very bad and strong odor. The only predators known to this bug happen to be worse than the bug itself and two of these are rodents and geese.

Methods of Getting Rid of Box Elder Bugs

Making repairs to your home where the bugs invade the home is a good start. Seal up the points where they enter the home, repair any torn screens and repair the cracks around doors and windows. Vacuum the bugs that have already entered the home and dump them and/or spraying them with a mixture of laundry detergent and water can be a good fix. For removal from the exterior walls or tree trunks you can use a pressure hose.

Infestations caused by a female in the area is a different story altogether in many ways. It is not just as simple as repairing and cleaning but the tree that has the female needs to be eliminated. Any other method would only be a temporary fix. Insecticide is not usually effective. If the destruction of the tree does not work, then clear away the seeds from the fallen tree. You can do this with a shop vacuum. The seeds need to be removed from the yard, patios, and driveways. The leaves and weeds should be cleared away about six to ten feet around the foundation of the home, especially the south and west sides. If the tree is on your property and you don’t want to have it removed then you can have a tree sprayer come in each year to prepare it for when the female is to lay the eggs on the leaves.

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